Mid-Atlantic Hound Association

HOW TO GET STARTED IN LURE COURSING
by John Parker - with permission - from http://www.greyhoundadoption.org
Lure coursing is a humane sport which re-creates the chase of the hare by the pursuing hound. The "bunny" consists of strips of white plastic attached to a continuous loop line that runs through a series of pulleys to simulate the zigzag path of a rabbit on the run. No wagering is involved; the dogs run for fun and the occasional ribbon or trophy. Coursing is not merely a race. Greyhounds and the other participating sighthound breeds are judged not only on speed, but also on enthusiasm during the course, agility in making turns, how accurately they follow the path of the lure, and their endurance in completing the course.
This article is intended to provide step-by-step suggestions for getting your Greyhound started in lure coursing in a way that will help you avoid some of the pitfalls common to coursing newcomers who "leap right in" without adequate preparation. It is not intended to be an exhaustive treatise on lure coursing, nor does it describe the only way to get started in the sport. It is based on my own experience in lure coursing, numerous discussions with coursing veterans whose experience goes back many more years than my own, and the experiences of a number of Greyhound owners whom I have had the pleasure of mentoring in their "rookie year."
About Injury
First, a word about injury potential is in order. As with any athletic activity, lure coursing does hold some risk of injury to your Greyhound. To put that risk in perspective, however, a Greyhound free running in your back yard also runs the risk of injury, and if your yard has trees, rocks, holes, stumps, etc., the injury potential there may be greater than on the more controlled environment of a flat or gently rolling pasture that has been converted to a coursing field. Although you can't completely eliminate all risk of injury (in coursing or any other sporting endeavor), following the suggestions below can certainly help reduce that risk.
Do a Background Check On Your Dog
If you think you might be interested in taking your Greyhound coursing, start by doing a little background research on him. Jot down his ear tattoo numbers, then call the National Greyhound Association (913-263-4660) and ask them to give you your Greyhound's registered name, his certificate number and his volume number. (You will need this information later to get your Greyhound precertified to participate in field trials.) Also ask the NGA folks to give you the name, address and telephone number of your dog's registered (former) owner.
Unless your adoption group advises against it, give the former owner a call. You'll no doubt have a lot of questions to ask him or her, but make sure you ask the following:
	What was your Greyhound's racing weight? Did your dog sustain any racing or other injuries during its career? If so, what were they? Was your Greyhound ever "ticketed" for interference or fighting?
If the former owner was not personally involved with the Greyhound, he may not have the information you request. If that's the case, ask him to give you the name and phone number of the racing kennel to which he leased the dog and the name of the trainer. Call the trainer and ask the above questions.
If you are not able to read the tattoo numbers, or if the NGA doesn't have the requested information, don't despair. You can still enter your Greyhound in coursing trials using an Indefinite Listing Privilege (ILP) number obtainable from the American Kennel Club. To get an ILP number, call the AKC at 919-233-9767 and ask them to send you an ILP application. The application form is quite self-explanatory.
The Vet Check – A Must
Any injury history you learn about your Greyhound from its former owner or trainer should be discussed with your veterinarian. While a broken hock is usually a career-ending injury, a broken leg may not be. If you are unable to find out anything about your dog's history, a trip to the vet for a thorough physical examination is a good idea. Discuss your coursing plans with the vet, and ask him to determine whether your Greyhound has any musculoskeletal, cardiac, or pulmonary problems that make full-speed running inadvisable.
While you're at the vet's office, weigh your Greyhound. Ideal coursing weight is no more than 5 pounds over racing weight. If you are unable to determine your dog's racing weight, take a good (and honest) look at him - you should be able to see the outline of at least the last two ribs. If you haven't been able to resist the urge to "fatten up that skinny Greyhound," it's time to put your friend on a diet and get that weight off! Running overweight Greyhound (either at lure coursing or at play) puts undue strain on joints and muscles, and can cause injuries. Maintaining proper running weight will help make your Greyhound healthier and longer-lived, whether you go coursing or not.
Next, take a look at those toenails. Overlong nails are the primary cause of toe injuries in the coursing Greyhound. Your Greyhound's nails should be kept trimmed short enough so that they don't touch the floor when the dog is standing on a hard surface. If you're timid about trimming nails, take your dog to a groomer for a pedicure. To avoid the risk of soreness or infection, don't trim nails within three or four days of a coursing run.
The State of Conditioning
With your Greyhound at or near his ideal weight and his nails trimmed, you're ready to assess the state of his conditioning. How much running -to the point of reaching that fully extended double suspension gallop - does he do each week? If the answer is less than two or three times per week, some additional conditioning is advisable. Ideally, conditioning should take the form of roadwork alongside a country road, running on lead behind a bicycle or vehicle. But let's face it - that's unrealistic for the majority of Greyhound owners living in an urban or suburban environment. If your own residence doesn't have suitable running space, take your Greyhound to a fenced athletic field, a park, or a friend's yard and throw a ball or Frisbee (or whatever else he'll chase), starting with ten to fifteen minute sessions and building up to twenty-five to thirty minute sessions. Take frequent breaks to let the dog's breathing slow down, and so that the dog won't get bored with the chase play.
Practice Time
Once your hound is in shape to run, it's time to practice. One of the best opportunities to practice coursing is at the conclusion of a regular field trial, when most coursing clubs offer practice at a nominal charge. To find out about coursing trials in your area, call the American Sighthound Field Association's (ASFA) Newcomer's Information Service at 860-563-0533, or ask your adoption group to refer you to a local coursing club or an adopter who has become active in coursing.
Although many Greyhound owners will want to have their hounds pre-certified (about which, more below) at the first trial they attend, it is really best to wait and let your Greyhound run a practice course (or better, two or more courses) alone. Former racers, by virtue of their track training and racing career, are used to chasing a lure that does not make sharp turns, and consequently they may not be accustomed to slowing down enough before they make a sharp turn. Taking a sharp turn at full speed may be asking more of a toe joint or foot bone than it was designed to, take. Letting your Greyhound practice alone enables the lure operator to run the lure just for him and to give the lure long leads so that your hound. won't be "surprised" by a sudden quick turn of the lure and try to take that turn at top speed. Always tell the lure operator that you are practicing a new Greyhound, and ask him to keep the lure well ahead of the dog.
The First Field Trial When you have selected the field trial you want to attend, try to commit the day so that you can see roll call, inspection, and the preliminary and final runs. Showing up early may give you the opportunity to let your Greyhound run a practice course alone as the "test dog," or to run in one of the few practice courses that may be offered during the period in which the draw is being conducted.
What to bring to that first field trial? At a minimum, a folding chair for yourself, and drinking water and a water bowl for the Greyhound. If you have a crate and can get it in your vehicle, bring it -it's a great place for your Greyhound to rest and relax out of sight of the lure, and that will be a nice break for you as well. (Don't leave a Greyhound unattended and uncrated in a vehicle even at a cool weather field trial - the damage a lure-excited Greyhound can inflict on the interior of a car is a wonder to behold!) In warm weather, it's a good idea to bring your own shade in the form of an inexpensive picnic canopy, as some fields have limited shade.
If your Greyhound has its dew claws (the nails about a third of the way up the foreleg), go to a pet supply store and buy some "Vetrap." This is a bandaging material that is excellent for covering the dewclaws to keep them from getting caught in the lure line. Before your Greyhound runs a practice course, ask a coursing veteran at the trial to show you how to wrap the dewclaws. The wrapping should be done shortly before the run, and cut off shortly after.
Your Greyhound should not be fed on the morning of a-coursing event, or for a few hours afterward, to avoid the risk of gastric torsion, commonly known as "bloat." A small meal at bedtime the night before can replace the morning meal.
When you arrive at the field trial, and after the trial is underway, locate the Field Trial Chairman and introduce yourself as a "new Greyhound person" who wants to learn more about coursing. Ask him about signing up for practice, and request that he introduce you to a veteran Greyhound courser who likes to help new people get started. (There are plenty of people like that at field trials - it's one of coursing's finest traditions.)
The First Run
Ask this coursing veteran to get you set up with a sliplead (coursing clubs usually have "loaner" slipleads and coursing blankets), and to show you how to use it. Also, ask him to explain release and retrieval procedures.
When the lure is moving during the other dogs' runs, make sure that you have a good hold on your Greyhound - don't let him out the full length of the lead, as a lure-excited Greyhound can most assuredly back out of even a martingale collar at that distance. If he does get away from you during a run, call out "Loose dog!!" in a loud voice to alert the lure operator that he should stop the lure to avoid a mid-field collision. By tradition, most clubs impose a $5 fine on the owner of a loose hound, but the embarrassment is always worse than the fine!
When your Greyhound is called up for a practice run, don't hesitate to ask the Huntmaster (the starter) for help with the sliplead or release procedures. If your dog won't run when the "Tally ho!" is called, don't despair -just run along with him and encourage him for the first few yards. More often than not, that will help "push the button," and your Greyhound will take off, confident that "it's okay to chase the bunny."
After The Run
After the run, take the dog for a cool down walk for ten to fifteen minutes. This will help prevent muscle cramping and will give you a chance to observe any change of gait and do a quick "once over" inspection of feet and legs. If it's a warm day, wet the Greyhound down, particularly the chest, inner thighs, and feet. (It's also a good idea to wet him down before the run.) Wait until his breathing has slowed down somewhat before allowing him to drink water, and make sure he has plenty of fresh water thereafter.
Getting Certified
If you and your Greyhound have enjoyed coursing so far, you're ready to get him certified to run in regular field trials. "Certification", means that a licensed coursing judge has watched him run with another Greyhound over a course of at least 500 yards, and that he both completed the course and did not interfere with the other dog. If the former owner or trainer of your Greyhound told you that he was "ticketed" for interference at the track, don't give up on ever lure coursing him - that doesn't necessarily mean that he will interfere on the coursing field. However, it would be a wise precaution in such a case to put a racing muzzle on him before he runs with another dog, just to make sure that no nipping takes place.
If your Greyhound successfully completes his certification run, the judge will sign your "Hound Certificate" form provided to you by the host club. On the form should be written your dog's registered ("racing") name and NGA certificate and volume numbers. Keep the Hound Certificate among your Greyhound's other records. When you enter him in his first regular field trial, you must attach a copy of the Hound Certificate to the entry form, keeping the original for your records.
If your Greyhound doesn't get certified the first time, don't give up. Try running him alone for a few more practice courses - many Greyhounds learn through repetitive practice to concentrate on the lure, and not on chasing their running mates. If he continues to interfere but you still enjoy watching him run, you can enter him in the "Singles stake" in regular field trials. He will run alone, will be scored by the judges, and will be eligible to win ribbons, but cannot run with other dogs for Best of Breed or Best in Field. For those who "surf the 'Net," there is an excellent, detailed paper on all aspects of lure coursing at http://clark.net/pub/bdalzeII/lureinfo.html. ASFA also has an excellent Web page on coursing at http://www.asfa.org/. Have a safe, fun, and exciting coursing experience. Tally ho!
John Parker volunteers for Greyhound Pets of America-Atlanta /Southeastern Greyhound Adoption, and is President of the Southeastern Greyhound Club. He is a member of the Appalachee Coursing Club and the Coursing Hound Association of the Southeast.